Alpine route - Spigolo Bianco

Middle to easy Alpine route

Photo

Angela Trawoeger and Giampaolo Calzà (Trota)
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Written by

Giampaolo Calzà (Trota) and Angela Trawoeger

Alpine route report

Update of 10th June 2015

Re. The Landslide of May 2015, area Co’ dei Piombi on Monte Baldo.
Path no. 13 (San Michele to San Maggiore) is closed.
We don’t yet know when it will be re-opened and we will keep you updated on this.
Close to Spigolo Bianco is covered with detritus from the Landslide and the whole area is closed.

Col dei Piombi - On the west face of Monte Baldo, Malcesine

Lenght: 500mt
Drop: 300mt
Difficulty: III° - IV° uiaa
Equipment: Normal alpine climbing equipment, ropes and loose carabine clips. Unequipped belay station. Climb rich in good attachment points, rock tunnel (sanduhr).
Type of terrain: Limestone rock much used, full of holes and good attachment points.
First climb: Giampaolo Calzà (Trota) and Luciano Roncagalli - 29/12/2009

Leaving from Malcesine, you go up to San Michele (the halfway station of the Cable Car from Malcesine). At the car park, go on up a few more metres in the direction of Monte Baldo and take the path that goes down on your right towards San Maggiore. You go past the chapel of San Michele and go on downhill until you come out of the woods. Go down along the short tarmac path, go over the crossroads (if you go straight on here you will arrive at San Maggiore and then taking the right hand descent you will meet the main road ‘Strada Panoramica’) and soon after go up hill on the second path on your left. From here on the path isn’t signposted. Shortly after this, you will see red paint markings on your left that mark the path until it meets the alpine route. This will take about 30/40 minutes and, at the moment, the track has not been kept very clear.

Most of the path is grade III, the rock is limestone and sharp, well-used and full of holes and good rock tunnel (sanduhr). The path carries on along the edge of the canyon and there is no other way of going along it. Every 5-6m there are ropes in the attachment points. You will find many natural handholds along the path.

The end of the path is Grade IV, bolted with bolts (spit) and with two belay stations. You get to the end by first keeping right (south) going across a short scree and soon after going through the wood to your left (north): from here on you will see the same red markings that will take you to the final two stretches to reach the end.

The climb is simplified by the character of the rocks which are rich in natural hand holds, rock tunnel (sanduhr). This route is very beautiful and the wonderful panoramic view over Garda and its Trentino and Bresciani mountains will be with you for the whole trip. Don’t be tempted to go into the canyon which is prone to landslides. If you go quietly you may be lucky enough to see one of the Chamois that are found in this area.

When you have finished this climb go up through the woods (there is no path – a 150m climb) until you arrive on the mule path between Piombi and Il Signor (path number 2). Go down to Il Signor and keep left always going downhill on the tarmac path which will bring you back to San Michele in about 50 minutes.

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