Climbing

Alpine route Spigolo Bianco at Lake Garda

Col dei Piombi – On the west face of Monte Baldo, Malcesine

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Davide Fambri

Mountain bike, ski touring and paragliding
Angela Trawoeger
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Angela Trawoeger

Creator, photographer and content manager

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First climb

Giampaolo Calzà (Trota) and Luciano Roncagalli – 29/12/2009

This route is very beautiful and the wonderful panoramic view over Garda and its Trentino and Brescia mountains will be with you for the whole trip. If you go quietly you may be lucky enough to see one of the Chamois that are found in this area.

Techincal relation

  • General informations

    • Starting point
      San Michele
    • Endpoint
      San Michele
    • Route
      San Michele – Piombi – San Michele
    • Lenght
      500m
    • Difference in level – ascent/descent
      300m
    • Maximum height
      1215m
    • Time
      2 hrs
    • Difficulty
      III° – IV° UIAA

Equipment

Normal alpine climbing equipment, ropes and loose carabine clips. Unequipped belay station. Climb rich in good attachment points, rock tunnel.

Type of terrain

Limestone rock much used, full of holes and good attachment points. The climb is simplified by the character of the rocks which are rich in natural hand holds, rock tunnel.

Alpine route description

Most of the path is grade III, the rock is limestone and sharp, well-used and full of holes and good rock tunnel (sanduhr). The path carries on along the edge of the canyon and there is no other way of going along it. Every 5-6m there are ropes in the attachment points. You will find many natural handholds along the path.

The end of the path is Grade IV, bolted with bolts (spit) and with two belay stations. You get to the end by first keeping right (south) going across a short scree and soon after going through the wood to your left (north): from here on you will see the same red markings that will take you to the final two stretches to reach the end.

Don’t be tempted to go into the canyon which is prone to landslides.

When you have finished this climb go up through the woods (there is no path – a 150m climb) until you arrive on the mule path between Piombi and Il Signor (path number 2). Go down to Il Signor and keep left always going downhill on the tarmac path which will bring you back to San Michele in about 50 minutes.

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How to reach the alpine route

Leaving from Malcesine, you go up to San Michele (the halfway station of the Cable Car from Malcesine).

Approach

At the car park, go on up a few more metres in the direction of Monte Baldo and take the path that goes down on your right towards San Maggiore. You go past the chapel of San Michele and go on downhill until you come out of the woods. Go down along the short tarmac path, go over the crossroads (if you go straight on here you will arrive at San Maggiore and then taking the right hand descent you will meet the main road ‘Strada Panoramica’) and soon after go up hill on the second small path on your left. From here on the path isn’t signposted. Shortly after this, you will see red paint markings on your left that mark the path until it meets the alpine route. This will take about 30/40 minutes and, at the moment, the track has not been kept very clear.

During winter

All year round if without ice and snow. The route is on the west side of Monte Baldo and it is in the shade until late morning.

From 360 Magazine