Climbing

Crag Maroc di Cassone in Malcesine at Lake Garda

Climbing in the woods in a very quiet area

tommaso
Text

Tommaso Toninelli

Climbing, trekking and mountain bike

Partner

Xtreme bike malcesine 360gardalife
Hotel Maximilian 360gardalife
Hotel Dolomiti 360gardalife en

The Cassone Maroc are 4 rock formations in a wood equipped for climbing and which include a boulder zone.

The beautiful climbing park of Cassone, opened 2012, is the result of dedicated work by the new climbing association, Ma.Rock

There are 23 routes of varying difficulty from 10 to 18m long. The faces are ideal for children and families who want to have a go at this sport.

The Maroc are not usually crowded and are in a well-shaded area. They are climbable all year round but only when the weather is good.

Details

  • Technical report

    • Type of wall
      plates – west face very steep drop
    • Type of climbing
      climbing with feet on plates and very steep (west)
    • Type of route
      single pitch, walls with climbs of different lengths
    • Routes
      23 routes from 4a to 7b
    • Suggested rope lenght
      60m
    • Bolt quality
      excellent
    • Exposure
      nord-south-west-east
    • Altitude
      250m
    • Equipped by
      Ma.Rock Association
    • Parking
      10 cars
    • Approach time
      15 minutes

Boulder

The Boulder Zone goes right round the face and, at the moment, consists of 4 cleaned limestone rocks – the start of the climb is indicated by a black arrow. Moving between the rock masses is made more difficult by the wood and vegetation but generally you can get around the paths without problems.

There are 11 climbs of between grade 5a and 6b (in which there are few repeat climbs) but the area is still being developed and new climbs are due to be added. The Landings are quite convenient and the mean height of the rocks is approx. 3m so there isn’t much need for big crash pads. You do need to allow at least a day for the rocks to dry after a period of rain before making these climbs.

How to get there

Coming from the north, once you arrive at Cassone take the first road on the left going uphill. Go up to the church square and turn left going up for a kilometre until you get to the playground where you can leave your car.
From here you need to carry on on foot on the road directed to the Malga Fiabio path. Go straight on uphill for about 15 minutes and, where the tarmac stops, take the path on your left which takes you into the wood. You will find the climbs 100m after the start of the path.

Parking

In Cassone

Partner

Hotel Maximilian 360gardalife
Hotel Dolomiti 360gardalife en
Hotel Villa Edera 360gardalife en

Our recommendations

  • It is a great cliff in the summer and it is not usually crowded
  • It is not climbable with rain
  • The road to get there is very steep but short
  • When you reach the top look south-west and enjoy the breathtaking views of the lake

Climbing course and try day with a mountain guide on Lake Garda

Rock climbing is a suitable sport for everyone but you cannot improvise: knowing the equipment and procedure to climb in safety is very important.

Also with a guide From 69€ per person

Find out more

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From 360 Magazine