Climbing

Crag Valle dei Molini di Cassone in Malcesine

Climbing at Lake Garda in a shady and not very popular canyon

Angela Trawoeger
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Angela Trawoeger

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The crag Valle dei Molini is found near Cassone to the south of Malcesine.

You climb inside a canyon which has its own microclimate. The rock face is very worn by the effect of water infiltration which has shaped holes and canals. The rock is limestone and the faces are fairly steep.

You should only make this climb in good weather. It is perfect in the summer because the sun never reaches the valley.

In 2012 the climbs have been cleaned and the ironwork redone by the Ma.Rock Association. Some routes have been lengthened and the climbing grades upped. Due to the Association’s work, the quality of the climbs and their maintenance has greatly improved.

The valley is very beautiful and quiet but not very popular, it means that the approach path and the routes can be a bit dirty.

Details

  • Technical report

    • Type of wall
      slightly vertical
    • Type of climbing
      ‘resistance’ climbs over canals and holes
    • Type of route
      single pitch
    • Routes
      9 routes from 6a+ to 7A
    • Suggested rope lenght
      60/70m
    • Bolt quality
      very good
    • Exposure
      north
    • Altitude
      250m
    • Equipped by
      Climb Association Ma.Rock
    • Parking
      5/10 cars
    • Approach time
      20 minutes

How to reach the crag

Coming to Cassone from Malcesine, park at the tennis courts and take the road going uphill on the left and, at the “climbing area” notice, turn left into the canyon below the path and walk up through it for 8 to 10 minutes. The 9 climbs are on your left.

Parking

In Cassone

Similar route

From 360 Magazine