From 4a to 9a+, climbing one of the most famous crags of Italy
Tommaso Toninelli
Climbing, trekking and mountain bike
Angela Trawoeger
Creator, photographer and content manager
Partner
The crag Policromuro in Massone is located in a small valley north of San Martino, close to Massone and to the Caproni wood.
With over 160 routes of varying difficulty, length and inclination, the crag of Massone is one of the most famous and visited in Italy. There are six sectors on limestone, with notches, canes and overhangs, with excellent bolting.
Sector A has the easiest grades that increases up to 9a of the sector F, Pueblo. This sector has developed inside an ex quarry and all the routes starts from underground, they are only overhanging from 7a+ to 9a+.
These is the most famous route of Massone, Underground (8c+/9a) set free by Manfred Stuffer in 1998 to which are added Under Vibes (9a), Ultimatum (9a) set free by Stefano Ghisolfi and Atene Naturale (9a) opened by Adam Ondra.
The walls are south-east oriented with the base always exposed to the sun. You can climb there all year round even with heavy rain on the overhanging routes.
The crag is easy to reach, surrounded by green terraces of olive trees, with picnic areas, toilets and racks for the bikes.
As in the most frequented crags the easiest routes up to sixth grade could be quite slippery. During peak periods, mostly during weekends, there could be parking issues.
Details
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Technical report
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Type of wall
from vertical to much less perpendicular
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Type of climbing
technical and resistance
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Type of route
walls with single pitch
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Routes
about 160 routes from 4a to 9a+
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Suggested rope lenght
60-70m
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Bolt quality
good-excellent
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Exposure
east
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Altitude
100m
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Equipped by
G. Groaz, D. Depretto, R. Larcher, R. Scherer, O. Celva and others
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Parking
for 20-30 cars, also vans and campervans
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Approach time
5 minutes
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Type of wall
How to reach the crag
From Arco take the road 45bis with direction Dro/Trento.
After the roundabout turn right to Massone, San Martino.
Enter the town of Massone and follow the directions for the crag of Policromuro. Be careful as the roads are narrow.
Follow the road uphill through the olive groves up to the parking lot in front of the first sector. Further uphill there are some other parking spaces along the hairpins.
