Monte Baldo alpine route, Vetta delle Buse – route A. Molinaroli

Climbing in a wild high mountain environment at Lake Garda

Photo and texts

Davide Fambri

Mountain bike, ski touring and paragliding

Route: Trail 654 – Val delle Pree – Start via A. Molinaroli – Vetta delle Buse – Refuge Telegrafo – Trail 654

Despite the long time required to reach its feet, along a majestic environment and beautiful views, the alpine route A. Molinaroli deserves to be climbed at least once.**

The area is less crowded than others and the wilderness of the high mountains has nothing to envy to the Brenta and the Dolomites.

The rock is mostly solid and compact except in some places where you have to choose carefully the hold to grab.
The route is well protected with anchors and solid stops.

Map and GPS-Track up to the start of the alpine route

• Alpine route

  • Difficulty
    V-
  • Development
    170m
  • Time to reach the top
    2 hours
  • Exposure
    the north face of the Vetta delle Buse (2156mt), inside the Pree valley, cirque of Telegrafo on Monte Baldo.
  • Conditions
    well protected via, recently rearranged, protection and solid stops . Despite this, it would be better to take some friends along as this remains an alpine route!
  • Equipment
    normal alpine equipment
  • First ascent
    Franco Coltri and Beppe Vivaldi in 1989

• General informations

  • Starting point
    Val Trovai
  • Endpoint
    Val Trovai
  • Route
    Trail 654 – Val delle Pree – Start via A. Molinaroli – Vetta delle Buse – Refuge Telegrafo – Trail 654
  • Lenght
    10 km
  • Difference in level – ascent/descent
    1157m /1157m
  • Maximum height
    2156m
  • Time
    8 hours
  • Difficulty
    medium

Partner

Route description

1st pitch: 45m (8 fix, 3 nails – friends and lanyards for spikes)

Climb some meters following the evident red spits, pointing and going past a small overhang. Reach the fissure on the slab and follow it to a small dihedral, go past it and climb vertically keeping to the left of the dihedral to a comfortable and wide terrace where a solid stop is located.

2nd pitch: 30m (4 fix, 3 nails – friends)

Follow vertically the slab, remaining few meters to the right of the big dihedral up to a solid stop.

3rd pitch: 30m (4 fix, 1 eyebolt)

You go up vertically for a few meters until you reach a big ledge parallel to the wall, it aims straight to the chimney (circled ring nail red red marked) and go up in opposition to the stop in the chimney.

4th pitch: 45m (3 fix, 3 nails, 1 eyebolt)

Rise vertically over the stop and climb obliquely to the left up to a ledge with an evident eyebolt, red marked (last protection). Keep going for others 10m, passing the eyebolt on the right and then obliquely to the left (add a couple of friends to the protections) to end up on a wide grassy ledge where the route ends.
Stop with summit book and Tibetan flags.

Partner

Return

Go back to the grassy fields above, you reach the Vetta delle Buse on the left (2156m) and join the path leading to the refuge Telegraph on the left.

How to reach the attack of the alpine route

Access

By car: from Castelletto go up to the steep Punta Veleno (road signs for Zignago-Prada) to 1006m of height where the road flattens. Park your car on the right next to a earthy lay-by where a channel for water flows.

Approach

Walk along the tarmac road until you find the entrance for trail 654, on the left (road signs for Telegrafo and ferrata delle Taccole).

Follow the trail to reach a white road. Turn left and then immediately right to get back on trail 654 which ascends along hairpins and crosses a big field.

Turn right leaving the wider road and climb to the crossroad. Turn right running along a rocky stretch.

Ascend Val delle Pree until the crossroad, turn right following the road signs for Ferrata delle Taccole and run along the trail below the highlighted rock which will take you from the left to the right of the valley.

Ascend the track between the gravel below the rocky wall until a big boulder where you can see the beginning of the route, marked with three red spots.

During winter

Inaccessible due to snow.

Our suggestions

• Overall, the trip is long and tiring, take a break at the refuge “Telegrafo G.Barana”. The shelter is run by the guys of Team Nature and the dishes they offer are tasty
• During the hot days make sure to leave soon to face the trial with better temperature
• The route is north exposed and the wall is very cold, even in the hottest days
• Always take some water, an anorak and a sweatshirt with you.

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