Climbing over the lake in one of the historical crags of Alto Garda
Davide Fambri
Mountain bike, ski touring and paragliding
Giampaolo Calzà
Partner
The Spiaggia delle Lucertole is a vertical wall overlooking the lake, coming from Torbole is at the exit of the second tunnel, south of the slabs of Corno di Bò.
The Spiaggia delle Lucertole is an historical crag of the Garda, a sacred place for climbing equipped in the 80’s by Bassi, Mariacher, Iovane, Manolo. The difficulty of the grades is still the same.
The rock is grey and made of white limestone. The routes are nicely equipped, beautiful and technical; you climb in adherence on vertical slabs with small holes for the fingers. On many routes you start a few meters above the water, belaying on iron pegs.
The wall is south exposed and you can climb all year round.
During the week is poorly frequented but during weekends it can get quite crowded.
Details
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Technical report
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Type of wall
vertical
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Type of climbing
Adherence – micro holds on a vertical wall
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Type of route
Single pull routes of different lengths
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Routes
19 routes, from 5b to 7c 16 single pitch – 3 multi pitch routes
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Suggested rope lenght
60/70m
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Bolt quality
optimal, coated rings
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Exposure
south
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Altitude
70m
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Equipped by
R. Bassi, H. Mariacher, Manolo, L. Iovanne
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Parking
Max 10 cars
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Approach time
5 minutes
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Type of wall
Partner
Torbolino
Close to the Spiaggia delle Lucertole there is the small crag of Torbolino. There are 4/5 routes graded 6b, on the lake side and also on the mountain side,
bolted by Bassi, Mariacher, Iovane e Manolo. From the Spiaggia delle Lucertole go south till the exit of the next tunnel with a small parking lot on the left. Due to the nearby road, this crag can be very noisy.
How to reach the crag
The crag is about two kilometers south of Torbole sul Garda.
The access, coming from Torbole, is to the right at the exit of the second tunnel.
What we suggest
- Bring your bathing suit with you.
- During the afternoon with regular weather conditions the Ora blows, a south wind, that is very enjoyable in the summer season. But during the winter, despite its south exposition, this wind can be very cold.
