Sport climbing on one of the historic crags of Alto Garda

Tommaso Toninelli
Climbing, trekking and mountain bike

Angela Trawoeger
Creator, photographer and content manager
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The crag of Nago is one of the most beautiful and frequented of Alto Garda; it’s very big with long and technical routes and with vertical walls. There are almost 120 routes, divided in two sectors from 4c to 7c. The routes graded up to 6c can be slippery due to the high number of people climbing over the years.
The crag is south oriented and can be climbed all year long but only in good weather. In the morning the base is often windy. During the week the crag is not very busy but at the weekends is quite crowded.
The crag is a popular place because of the wide range of its grades, most of them around sixth, with perfect bolting, an easy access and south oriented.
Details
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Technical report
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Type of wall
vertical
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Type of routes
single pitch
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Type of climbing
technical and resistance
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Routes
– 6 routes grade 4
– 18 routes with grade 5
– 19 routes with grade 6a
– 19 routes with grade 6b
– 15 routes with grade 6c
– 20 routes with grade 7a
– 15 routes with grade 7b
– 5 routes with grade 7c -
Suggested rope length
60/70m
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Altitude
250m
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Exposure
south
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Bolt quality
excellent
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Equipped by
D. Depretto, L. Colo
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Parking
15-20 cars
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Approach time
10 minutes
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Type of wall
How to reach the crag
In Nago enter the village at the big roundabout and follow the directions for Monte Baldo up to the shrine. Then turn left on a white road uphill to reach the parking lot. From here follow the path and you will soon be in sector A.
To park next to the highest sectors, at the shrine keep right and go up on the tarmac road always following the direction for Monte Baldo. At the hairpin bend you can park along the road, where it becomes wider, and take the path next to the corner.
You can also park in the center of Nago and reach the crag by foot in a few minutes. It is best not to park your car in the countryside.
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What we suggest
- Better to avoid the weekend because it can be overcrowded but if you are going to the highest sectors normally there are fewer people.
- Perfect during winter – if there’s no wind- because is south exposed
- Don’t leave any objects on sight in the car, there have been some thefts already in this area